I've been reading Wild Ducks Flying Backward and came across the phrase "user-friendly weirdness with humorous overtones." Tom Robbins wasn't, but he might as well have been, describing my week-end in New Orleans. "User-friendly weirdness. With humorous overtones."
The French Quarter is the oldest neighborhood in New Orleans, dating back to 1718, a non-stop party comprising the neighborhood east of the Mississippi River, bounded at the south by Canal Street and the city's Central Business District and at the north by Esplanade Avenue and the residential neighborhood of Faubourg Marigny. And just between the quarter and those residential neighborhoods at the northern end lies Frenchmen Street, four blocks of "best kept-secrets," of bars, and cafes, small shops and one, very small, hotel. There is major craziness at the southern end of the Quarter, just a short walk from the major tourist and corporate hotels. But at the northern end, a pretty decent walk from the large tourist hotels, the craziness is more local, more homegrown, better understood as the "user-friendly weirdness" of the native artists, musicians, writers and romantics who inhabit Frenchmen Street.
On Saturday, Frenchmen Street was home to the New Orleans Book Fair, celebrating the best of the local authors and artists, puppeteers and bands, booksellers, book lovers, gypsies, tramps and thieves. And a carbetbagger or two, from up north, in town to celebrate books and eat crawfish.
At nine o'clock Saturday morning, I was helping to set up at the Cafe Negril, one of the many venues on Frenchmen Street that had agreed to host the bookfair. Removing Friday night's drum kits and beer bottles, setting up tables and stringing lights to supplement the bar's dim lighting. It was a wonderful place to spend the day, there at my table in the Cafe Negril, chatting with book lovers and selling a few books. And at five in the afternoon, just across the street at the Apple Barrel, another small bar on Frenchmen Street, where I was scheduled to do a reading. One Johnny Walker Black on the rocks and I was ready to read my short story, The Sound Bite and sell a couple more books.
On Sunday, I drove eighy miles to Baton Rouge, for a book talk at the Jones Creek Library. Baton Rouge was fun. Not "user-friendly weirdness," not "french quarter craziness," but fun. Nice people interested in talking about books, interested in talking about my book. And one elderly gentleman, nattily attired in tie and sweater, a retired professor from LSU, by way of Yale, an eighty-nine year old doctor of meteorology, who came to talk to "the man who was at the library to talk about the Pine Barrens." He bought a book. And he brought me a gift. A copy of his dissertation, completed nearly 60 years ago, when he studied the effect of fire on the growth habits of the pitch pines in the New Jersey Pine Barrens.
And in between the New Orleans Book Fair and the Jones Creek Book Talk, there's been jazz and blues, crawfish and catfish and redfish, beers, bloody marys and whiskey. Muffelatas. Beignets.
I'll post pictures later this week. In the meantime, I'm thinking about one more creole dinner. The It's Beginning to Look a Lot Like Murder 2009 Book Tour is off to a good start.